Prague (Sept 7-14) - Euro Adventure 2023

We traveled by train through the countryside, reminiscent of driving through Wisconsin, from Budapest to Prague, crossing Slovakia and into Czechia arriving mid-day. Based on Trip Advisor reviews, we had booked a week-long stay at the Red & Blue Design Hotel. Exiting the train station, we grabbed a cab, who overcharged us $80. We did not pay attention to the amount showing on the screen and was not given a receipt.

SIDE NOTE: As much as we assume everyone has the best intentions, reality suggests otherwise. Scammers abound. We knew better. We did not repeat that mistake. (Because we provided our card at the site of service, our bank was unable to recoup the loss).

Prague, the historical capital of the Kingdom of Bohemia and once the seat of the Holy Roman Empire, is today the capital of Czechia, often referred to as “the city of a Hundred Spires.” Famous for its beautiful architecture, the area has existed as an important trade route for several thousand years with the population growing from 4,000 in 1230 to 1.2 million in 2000. It wasn’t until 1784 that four formerly independent boroughs (Castle District including west and north of the Castle, Little Quarter/Lesser Quarter/Lesser Town or Mala Strana to the south of the Castle, Old Town on the east bank opposite the Castle, and New Town further south and east of Old Town) were incorporated into a single city. Our hotel was located in Lesser Town (Mala Strana), south of Prague Castle and Petrin Park on the west bank of the Vltava River. If we had to do it again, we’d stay in Old Town on the east side of the river.

YOU CAN'T ALWAYS TRUST TRIP ADVISOR

Upon arrival at our hotel, we dropped our bags and set out to explore the neighborhood. We stumbled across two smallish islands on our side of the Vltava River, Detsky and Kampa. Detsky literally translates to Children’s Island and is divided into sections of play by age. Chris located the swings in the older playground area that included a mini-rock climbing wall, adventure rope course, and sports and fitness equipment. Kampa Island is separated from Mala Strana by the Devil’s Stream, a narrow, man-made waterway, originally dug to power (no longer existing) water mills. Today, a modern art gallery is housed in the stunning two-winged main building of the old Sova’s Mills. The Charles Bridge crosses the northern most tip of the island and multiple sculptures dot the landscape.

We spent our first full day walking the expansive grounds and gardens of the Prague Castle, enclosed by wrought iron railing and entered through a gate decorated with violent statues. The compound, complete with a ceremonial changing of the guards, sits high above the city with spectacular views and includes churches protected by gargoyles, ornate palaces, a monastery, museums, and St. Vitus Cathedral. From this vantage point, it is easy to see “a hundred spires.”

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION ADVENTURES

The next day we visited a metro station to purchase tickets. Chris was able to buy three discounted 24-hour tickets, given his “senior” status over 60-years-old, requiring daily validation prior to use. I had one ticket, that once validated was good for 72-hours on any metro, tram or bus in the system. This will make more sense later in the post. Once we validated our tickets, we rode the tram across the river and walked through a music festival and market before continuing to Josefov, the former Jewish Ghetto, Old Town Square (National Gallery, Tyns Church, Astronomical clock, Museum of Sex Machines), Namesti Republiky, and Powder Tower. After riding another tram to the end of the line (we wanted to see a “neighborhood”) and back, we found the Lennon Wall before ending our day in Petrin Park. We rode the funicular to the top, read about transportation engineering marvels in Prague and walked around the tower (already closed) before heading back to our hotel.

Strelecky ostrov, an island in the middle of the river, was the next day’s destination. We loved how people were just hanging out on benches, reading, sunbathing, relaxing at the outdoor coffee truck and …. feeding the coypu? … enormous river rates (also known as nutria). Apparently, they exist in swampy parts of the US, I learned from our friend who grew up in Louisiana. However, I had never seen such an animal, and certainly not being hand fed by a person! Still very warm, we rented a paddle boat and spent the afternoon on the river. The boats came in many shapes and sizes, sometimes resembling old cars, animals, and our favorite – a pink milk truck functioning as a bar – trawling the river and offering beverages to paddlers!

After viewing the medieval stone arch Charles Bridge (started in 1357 AD) from the water, we returned to land to inspect the 30 statues and statuaries lining what was the only means of crossing the Vltava until 1841. Beginning in 1965 all statues were systematically replaced with replicas so that the originals could be safely displayed at the National Museum. The bridge is the most important connection between the Prague Castle and the city’s Old Town, ensuring Prague’s position as a critical trade route between Eastern and Western Europe. As has become normalized, we watched a woman stand in front of one of the three bridge towers (we were trying to get a clear picture) taking selfies for over 15 minutes. We moved on, returning later for the photo op.

EX-PATS AND LOCAL TRANSIT COPS

Always on the look-out for ex-pat communities in the countries we visited, I was thrilled to discover the Globe Bookstore in Old Town the next day. We enjoyed a yummy lunch and picked up a few more books for our upcoming train ride back to Italy. We returned to the train station to purchase tickets. The clerk was less than helpful so we decided we’d book online. When heading back to our metro station, Chris failed to validate a new daily ticket. The transit police stopped us and asked for our tickets. I showed my ticket and Chris showed the previous days’ validated ticket, which was now expired. The policeman dismissed all of Chris’s efforts to apologize, plead ignorance, or even return to validate the unused ticket. All responses were met with the same answer, “one thousand crowns, cash or card (approx. $50).” Chris claims he fought the law and the law won!

After paying our fine and continuing on to our metro station, we exited and wanted to pick up some snacks to have in our hotel room. We picked out fruit, bars, juices, etc. and went to pay. The card reader was not working, cash only. We tried Euros, and learned cash meant Czech crowns only. We ended up walking out without snacks. With a rude ticket agent, unyielding transit cop and an inability to purchase snacks, we began to lament that Monday was not a good day, then we looked at each other and thought we are retired and on an amazing journey living our best life, and off we went in search of our next adventure!

The following morning we returned to the Powder Tower in Old Town to meet Hannah, our guide for the WWII in Prague and Anthropoid Tour. A small group of us gathered as she shared her vast knowledge and deep passion regarding the plight of the Czech Jews, the Prague Uprising, and the resistance fighters during WWII. It was an incredible tour shared through stories, photos, memorabilia and visiting important landmarks from this tumultuous period in history. The real-life story of how soldiers from the Czechoslovakian exile government carried out the assassination of Reinhard Heydrich (known as the main architect of the “Final Solution” – the Holocaust) is depicted in the 2016 film, Anthropoid. Later, we enjoyed a lovely dinner at our favorite café, Bella Vita Café, overlooking the Vltava River with great views of the Charles Bridge.

After a few more days exploring, it was time to return to Italy and connect with friends from Denver. We enjoyed a final breakfast overlooking the river at Bella Vita Café, returned to check out of our hotel, wrote an unfavorable TripAdvisor review, and with backpacks on, headed to the train station. We grabbed a final vegan meal at #Natoo and boarded our train.

Traveling by train from Budapest to Prague was reminiscent of driving from Minneapolis to Chicago or Des Moines.

Locks at the point of Detsky Island, allowing boats to navigate the river.

More views of Detsky Island just past the locking system.

Detsky Island, also known as Children's Island, a recreation area along the Vltava River for children of all ages.

Kampa Island, part of the Lesser Town neighborhood on the Vltava River.

Many of the old mills have been renovated into restaurants and bars on Devil's Stream.

Devil's Stream, with a gnome sculpture at the end of an old mill dock.

Charles Bridge in the distance, Strelecky Island to the right and navigation channels in the foreground.

Sculptures in front of the Modern Art Museum on Kampa Island.

More sculptures on Kampa Island near the Modern Art Museum.

The famous Lennon Wall is near Kampa Island in Mala Strana (Lesser Town).

St. Nicholas Church in Lesser Town.

Views of Prague Castle from Lesser Town.

Lesser Town Tower near the Charles Bridge.

Approaching Matthias Gate at Prague Castle. Tourists are routed through the grounds and you exit from this gate.

Wresting Titans on stone pillars framing Matthias Gate.

Other side of Matthias Gate.

Kohl's Fountain in front of the Chapel of the Holy Cross in the second courtyard of Prague Castle.

St. Vitus Cathedral in Prague Castle.

St. Vitus Cathedral.

Gargoyles adorning St Vitus Cathedral's buttresses.

The interior of St. Vitus Cathedral.

Stained glass window inside St. Vitus Cathedral.

Metal figurines depicting everyday activities decorate the gate to St. Vitus.

Silver replica of St. Adalbert on granite in St. Vitus.

Gardens on the grounds of Prague Castle.

The city of a hundred spires, as seen from Prague Castle.

St. George's Basilica, the second church on site at Prague Castle.

Looking back toward Prague Castle as we descended into Lesser Town.

Looking toward Lesser Town and across the river into Old Town.

Music venue and site of music festival we visited as we crossed the river into Old Town.

Havelske Market in front of St. Havel's Church in Old Town.

Carriage rides in Old Town.

Old Town Square. Tyn's Church in the background, Jan Hus monument (father of European Reformation, burned at the stake in 1415) in the foreground.

Ministry of Regional Development Building, UNESCO World Heritage Site, Old Town Square.

Old Town Hall Clock Tower.

Astronomical clock installed on the front side of the Old Town Hall Tower in 1410.

Powder Tower (previously stored gunpowder) near Namesti Republiky Square in Old Town.

Spanish Synagogue, built in Moorish style, in Josefov (Jewish Quarter in Old Town).

Maisel Synagogue in Josefov consecrated in 1592.

Riding the tram system to explore neighborhoods.

Memorial to the victims of Communism at the base of Petrin Park.

Petrin Park at night.

Tourist hand feeding a Coypu.

Numerous coypu search for food on Strelecky Island.

Coffee truck and seating on Strelecky Island.

Water views of Old Town as we paddled the Vltava River. The Charles Bridge is on the left. The wood slats rising from the water provide protection during multiple floods in Prague.

A unique paddle boat.

Other paddlers, and boats, in the river.

The pink "bar" boat trawling for customers.

Legion Bridge joins Mala Strana and Old Town, as seen from the river.

River view of the "Dancing House" (aka as Ginger and Fred, on what was a vacant lot after WWII.

Walking the pedestrian only Charles Bridge connecting Old Town to the Prague Castle.

Replicas of original statues of saints on the Charles Bridge. Originals on display at the National Museum.

More Charles Bridge statues.

Entrance to St Cyril and St Methodius Cathedral, and entrance to the crypt through the wooden door below.

St Cyril and St Methodius Cathedral - church and crypt museum described in WWII in Prague Tour.

Upper level of St. Cyril and St. Methodius Cathedral, from where Czech resistance fighters fought the Nazis.

One of our last nights eating at Bella Vita Cafe, outside, overlooking the river with the Charles Bridge and Old Town in the distance.

Leaving Prague via train.

Ready to board.