Italy (Sept 15-30) - Euro Adventure 2023https://static.wixstatic.com/media/7f23fc_c4db559f0519474795d6ca6654631671~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_1000,h_750,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01/7f23fc

Once the weather cooled slightly (temps dropped below 95 degrees Fahrenheit) in Italy, we returned. Our travels were broken into three segments:

Week along the Tuscan Coast in Livorno with day trips to Cinque Terre National Park and Florence
Weekend in Rome, including visiting The Vatican
Week in Riva del Garda, in northern Italy in the lake’s region, with visits to Malcesine and Limone

Traveling back to Italy's Tuscan region by train, was an experience. Nothing was direct from Prague to Livorno, our destination, so a train change was required in Vienna. While waiting between trains, we sat in the food court watching people. There were many mentally ill, probably homeless and somewhat scary people hanging around, mostly digging through the trash in search of scraps of food. At one point, someone joined us in our booth to eat what they had found. It was uncomfortable, but not necessarily frightening. I kept reminding myself that unlike the US, most people did not carry nor have easy access to weapons, so these strangers were probably harmless.

Eventually we boarded our overnight train. Because we were unable to secure a sleeper or couchette with limited notice, we booked an entire compartment, reclining the seats to create a party pit for sleeping. Throughout our journey, we encountered many strange people, incredibly disgusting bathrooms - including one with smeared feces on a toilet seat, sticky floors, and bright lights as we stopped at multiple stations (including Milan and Genoa) for what felt like forever. We slept, but not restfully or for long. Suffice it to say, we were overjoyed to arrive in Le Spezia, with a quick transfer to Livorno through Pisa.

LIVORNO

While in Livorno, a port city near Pisa, with a modern cruise terminal and two Renaissance-era fortresses, we explored, rode bikes, relaxed, did laundry, took day trips and booked travel for the remainder of our adventure through France, The Netherlands, Belgium and London. We completed a 12-mile bike ride, mostly along the shoreline, with underwhelming beaches, except when created for private beach clubs. We explored the area known as Little Venice around our hotel, made dinner in our apartment and drank lots of superb $5 grocery store wines! Apparently, I attract insects of any variety and experienced significant spider bites (Chris – none!) until we moved to the top floor apartment with a rooftop deck, hot tub and gorgeous sunsets. We mastered local bus and train transportation providing cultural immersion. Most importantly, we agreed we did not need to carry as much stuff as was in our backpacks and shipped 16 pounds of clothing back to the states!

We attempted to spend the day kayaking along the coast near Riomaggiore, but with the overcast skies came rough water. Instead we explored the most-southern of the five ancient seaside fishing villages in Cinque Terre National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, perched high above the rugged coast. Established in the 13th century, Riomaggiore is filled with pubs and restaurants offering wine from local vineyards and connected to the village of Manarola by way of La via dell'Amore (The Way of Love) a pedestrian path overlooking the sea. We wanted to walk the path, but it was closed for construction. Instead, we hung out chatting with a lovely Danish couple at a café above the sea, until it began to rain and we returned to the train. It was a most magical day and a place we could see ourselves spending a few months.

When our friends from Denver arrived in Tuscany, we met up in Florence, before spending a weekend together in Rome. Italy’s train system makes day trips quick and easy. While Florence was not really on my radar, I am grateful for the opportunity to have experienced this magnificent city. Built on the remains of a Roman colony founded in 59 BC, it was the center of medieval European trade and one of the wealthiest cities during the Medici period in the 15th and 16th centuries. In addition to existing as a persistent and long-lasting site of creativity, the Historic Centre of Florence, including renowned architectural buildings, museums, churches and artworks of immeasurable worth, exists as a unique social and urban achievement. Most scholars consider it the birthplace of the Renaissance, as well as modern humanism, and as such bestow it with unique historical qualities.

We did two tours, the first was an overpriced and underwhelming tour hosted by Walks in Europe, “Florence: Cathedral, Duomo Museum, and Baptistry Tour” booked through Get Your Guide. Started in 1296, today it exists as the third largest church in the world with its uniquely recognizable geometric shapes and stylized flowers of white, green and pink marble adorning the external facade. The tour fee included admission to the bell tower, but since it was a timed entrance and our guide rushed through the first part of the experience, we were too early to enter and waiting would have interfered with our lunch plans. Instead we grabbed a quick bite to eat nearby and met our friends at their Airbnb before heading to our second and free walking tour. “The Best Tour in Florence: Renaissance and Medici Tales,” booked through Viator, which was led by Alberto, our passionate art and history buff, and was phenomenal. When completed, we made our way through the throngs of crowds back to the train and returned to Livorno.

Viator Review of The Best Tour in Florence: Renaissance and Medici Tales:

(Our guide was prompt, spoke perfect English, used a microphone and asked for questions at every stop. He provided a robust overview of Florence and Tuscany in the 13th-17th centuries. Then he went deep into many topics, including the Medici Family, distinguishing between architectural styles, secular importance of churches, navigating Italian cities (e.g., start with the square named after the largest church, the main cathedral door always faces east), famous artists, the meaning behind statues and so much more. He was incredibly knowledgeable, highly educated, and passionate about sharing his love of city and country. He provided dining and sightseeing recommendations when asked, and described best routes to some of the best views of the city. He also kindly shared how he makes a living as a tour guide and recommended tipping standards. He was friendly, helpful and I felt went above and beyond with his knowledge of the city. He stopped at concrete locations and pointed out valuable tools for navigating and understanding what we were seeing and how to identify what we learned after the tour (e.g., the Medieval map in the center of the old market square, the style of arches on the castles, the color of the building material, a 14th century statue wearing attire in a nod to Roman ancestors). I can’t say enough about how much we learned and appreciated our magnificent guide! Read more about The Best tour in Florence: Renaissance and Medici Tales - https://www.viator.com/tours/Florence/The-Best-Tour-in-Florence-Renaissance-and-Medici-Tales/d519-191349P2?mcid=56757.

Arriving in Livorno, along the Tuscan Coast, we stayed at Agave in Citta, the middle orange building.

Across the canal from Agave, we ate at Chezugo.

Biking along the coast in Livorno.

Passing the Italian naval academy on the left.

Terrazza Mascagni observation deck in Livorno.

Canals within the historical Venezia neighborhood, named for its system of navigable canals created by the Medici.

This statue memorializes Saint John of Nepomuk who was drowned on orders of King Wenceslaus IV after he refused to give the king details of his wife's confessional.

Plaza on top of a moat, with statues of Grand Duke Ferdinand III & his son Leopold II.

View of the harbor from Fortezza Nuova.

Exploring Fortezza Nuova.

View over old part of Livorno.

Rooftop snack.

Looking down on the train station from above Riomaggiore.

Looking up the cliffs in Riomaggiore.

Riomaggiore's harbor.

Boat ramp from the Ligurian Sea to Riomaggiore.

Riomaggiore Beach.

A different view of Riomaggiore's harbor.

The cafe (salmon colored building with covered patio) where we enjoyed lunch over looking the sea.

Chris on top of an outcropping overlooking Riomaggiore Beach.

Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, aka Duomo Florence.

Giotto's Bell Tower, one of the four principal monuments on the Piazza del Duomo.

Another view of the Duomo, home to works by Michelangelo, Donatello, and Giotto. As seat of the Archbishop of Florence, it is an important spiritual and religious site.

Gothic interior of Duomo, representing austerity of religious life.

Brunelleschi's Dome, inside the Duomo Florence.

Known as the Gates of Paradise by Michelangelo, the golden doors of the Baptistery of St. John, with panels depicting Biblical scenes.

Artwork on display in the Duomo Museum, world's largest collection of Florentine monumental sculpture.

Most of these priceless pieces once looked down upon worshippers in the Cathedral.

Entrance to Palazzo Vecchio (former Medici palace and origin of Florentine Republic), marked by replica of Michelangelo's David, on Piazza della Signoria.

Adjacent to Piazza della Signoria sits Uffizi Gallery, home to priceless Renaissance works, donated to the city of Florence by the last living Medici heiress.

Another view of the Piazza della Signoria and more works of art.

Pizza della Repubblica, main square and center of commerce since Roman times.

Strozzi Palace, built for Cosimo d' Medici, head of the Medici banking family between 1444 and 1484.

Colonna della Giustizia, ancient Roman marble column of justice, re-erected by Florentine Medici dynasty in the Renaissance period as a victory monument. It stands in the Piazza Santa Trinita.

Across from the Santa Trinita is the Gothic Palazzo Spini-Ferroni. Once the largest, privately owned palace in Florence, it now serves as headquarters, workshop, museum and store to Salvatore Ferragamo, the famous shoe designer.

Ponte Vecchio, an old stone-arch bridge over the Arno River built in 1345, and only bridge spared destruction in WWII has an elevated corridor above the shops that connected Cosimo Medici's Palazzo Vecchio with the Pitti Palace, allowing his family to move between palaces without encountering people

ROME AND VATICAN CITY

Our train ride to Rome was uneventful, unless you count the young people in front of us making out the entire trip. We arrived at the Roma Termini, a massive train station in the middle of the city, and hiked to our Airbnb, which turned out to be 300 ft from the Pantheon. Our first night we connected with our Denver friends again. The next morning we started off at 6:30, walking half-way to Vatican City before we learned we needed to find a taxi stand to hail a cab. In case you didn’t know, Vatican City is the smallest country in the world, covering about 100 acres, located on top of a former Roman necropolis (tomb). The Vatican mints its own euros, prints its own stamps, and maintains its own military.

Upon arriving at Vatican City, where we had reservations for the Pristine Sistine Early Entrance Small Group Vatican Tour, we located our assigned group, and our guide Jeb. We were off on a fast-paced, but thorough exploration of the Vatican Museums, Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica. Because we had access prior to the general public, we moved quickly through miles of corridors and rooms ahead of the daytime crowds. But that didn’t mean the place was ours. Many tour companies now offer early morning access so while the brochures may suggest tranquility as a key component of your tour, don’t be fooled. The Vatican moves 20,000-25,000 visitors daily through its hallowed halls. Within our four-hour tour, we learned much with the most surprising fact being Japan’s Nippon TV Corp. retained exclusive rights to all photography and video of the Sistine Chapel since they funded the 20-year ceiling restoration that began in 1980. Although the rights have expired, the Vatican maintains a “no photos, no videos policy.”

The Vatican Museums, one of the world’s most famous museums is comprised of nine sections, 54 galleries and 20,000 pieces of art spread across 4.5 miles of corridors and former papal apartments, and includes the largest existing array of ancient Greek and Roman sculpture, as well as statues, tapestries, paintings and geographical maps. Upon completing the tour of the Museums, the Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter’s Basilica, we climbed the dome of the Basilica for breathtaking views of Vatican City and Rome, before reconnecting with our friends for brunch at an all-day breakfast place, Home Baked, run by an ex-pat from Buffalo, NY.

The following day we explored Palatine Hill, thought to be the birthplace of Rome and its historical center, as chosen by the first king of Rome in the 8th century BC. It is adjacent to the Colosseum and connects to the Roman Forum. As much of Rome was built over earlier buildings, there is ongoing excavation of ruins. We wandered through endless temples, palaces, churches, monuments and gardens. Rome is considered the most influential empire in history, and the most powerful political entity in the world following the fall of the Han Dynasty in China, from 96 to 581 AD. It was mind-boggling to walk around the origin of the Roman Empire, built upon the legacy of prior cultures, and recognize its significant influence on on today, from languages, the alphabet and calendar, the emergence of Christianity, law, state institutions, technological advances and engineering marvels.

While there was still much to see, our last day of heat, humidity and crowds, confirmed it was time to move on. We enjoyed lunch near the Colosseum, with an Italian motorcycle group and had a great dinner at Pantha Rei, in a small quiet alley just off the Pantheon. The following morning we were back at the train station and headed toward Italy’s lakes region.

The Pantheon, a Catholic Church in Rome since 609. Previously a Roman temple built on an earlier temple site from the reign of Augustus.

Front of the Pantheon at night.

Entrance to the Vatican Museums.

Gardens of Vatican City.

Mosaic tile floor in the Greek Cross room of the Vatican Museum.

Granite sphinx in the Vatican Museum.

Marble copy of a marble original bust of Serapis-Zeus, from the second half of the 4th century BC in the Vatican Museum's Round Room.

The Sala Rotunda in the Vatican Museums is modeled after the pantheon, including the ceiling oculus.

The sculpture of the River God Arno was the inspiration for Michelangelo’s David and dates from the time of the Emperor Hadrian. It was inspired by a Greek prototype, and as part of a fountain, the basin dates from 170-180 AD.

A corridor of thousands of statues.

Cortile della Pigna is named for the 13-foot pinecone sitting at one end. Made of bronze it dates to 1 BC. Originally found near the Pantheon, the two bronze peacocks are copies of ancient sculptures that flanked an entrance to Hadrian's Mausoleum.

A courtyard within the Vatican Museums.

Statue of the Greek Goddess Artemis of Ephesus, associated with fertility.