Exploring Peru (May 5-22, 2024)https://static.wixstatic.com/media/7f23fc_aeb00c9855f64f0b803624aa0a9aa304~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_815,h_1000,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01/7f23fc

Overall, I would categorize our adventure in South America as astonishing. We enjoyed many "firsts," including traveling to the Southern Hemisphere, hiking above 13,000 feet, sleeping above the clouds, petting alpacas, trekking nearly 30 miles over stone steps built by Incas in the 15th century, exploring the ancient city of Machu Picchu, meeting indigenous people on floating islands and enjoying a luxury train ride through the high Andes Mountains. We also participated in a home swapping program for the first time (see TRAVEL RESOURCES).

Unlike any previous trip we’ve taken, we woke up the morning of our departure, fully packed and ready to walk out the door. We even went to the airport early to take advantage of the United Club. As we boarded our flight and were settling in, the flight attendants announced weather delays in Houston (our connection to Lima) requiring all flights remain grounded for 90 minutes. We walked the airport to get steps, then returned to the United Club. Eventually we boarded our flight, fearing a missed connection. Turns out, all United Airlines flights were experiencing delays, which allowed us to make it to Lima, albeit a bit late, at 12:45am.

We booked a room at the airport Wyndam and grabbed a few hours of sleep before returning to the airport and catching our 10:45 am flight to Cusco.

History of the Inca Civilization

As a quick tutorial in case, you’re unfamiliar with Peru (as I was), the Inca Empire established their capital in what is modern day Cusco in 1100 AD. They were the largest civilization in pre-Columbian America between 1400-1533 AD, eventually stretching 3,400 miles across western South America; spreading from Ecuador, through Peru, northern Chile, Bolivia, upland Argentina, and southern Columbia. Incas are best known for their unique art and architecture, imposing buildings and spectacular adaptation of natural landscapes through terracing, highways and mountaintop settlements.

At its peak, the Inca Empire ruled the western coast of South America, including the Andes Mountains. They controlled as many as 10 million people, speaking over a hundred different languages. Scientists remain perplexed as to how this sandal-clad civilization thrived among the second highest and harshest peaks (outside of the Himalayas) spending time in altitudes between 15,000 and 22,000 feet.

Most importantly, they created an unmistakable system of roads, spanning almost the entire length of the South American Pacific coast, passing through high-altitude plateaus, lush cloud-forests, ancient ruins, rivers and subtropical jungle. This great engineering and architectural feat was laid with large flat stones and marked by tree trunks and walls. The over 14,000 miles of paved paths allowed for efficient communication and transport of goods, built to last and withstand earthquakes, wind, floods, ice and draught. It was across the 26-mile portion of this extensive network, considered the Royal Road leading to the sacred site of Machu Picchu, that we hiked.

Our travel was divided into multiple segments:

· Acclimating in Cusco

· Hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

· Exploring the High Andes Mountains (Puno, Lake Titicaca and Arequipa)

· Sight-seeing in Lima

Acclimating in Cusco

Arriving in Cusco was an interesting experience. Upon landing, everyone remained seated. Usually, Americans stand up and begin gathering luggage as soon as the plane hits the ground. No one moved until the flight attendants opened the front door, and then it was chaos as people in the back pushed past others to get off. Very strange!

Our driver met us at the airport and upon arrival at the hotel we were given free cocktails in the courtyard while we waited for our room. The skies were blue, the clouds puffy and the city views spectacular. Cusco was much larger than we expected, though not what I would consider cosmopolitan.

I did a bit of research on the country’s economy. According to the CIA’s World Factbook, Peru is an “upper middle-income South American economy, hit hard by political instability and COVID-19, but rebounding quickly; 2nd largest cocaine producers, current account balance improving; persistent income inequality, diversified exporter.” Based on real GDP purchasing parity, Peru is ranked 46th by 2022 estimates, between Czechia and Hong Kong. As reference, number one is China, followed by the US, India, Japan, Germany and Russia.

Both days spent in Cusco in advance of our hike, we visited historic sites and wandered the markets. It felt a bit like being in Mexico, where most people were selling similar items, yet every seller tried to coax us into their stall and haggle until we walked on. Even our hotel courtyard provided a small market with two families selling wares AND parading a photogenically perfect baby alpaca around for photo opportunities in exchange for coins.

There are multiple amazing Inca ruins in Cusco, and archaeological remains of Spanish colonialism worth visiting, including:

· Qorikancha, the most sacred temple in the Inca Empire with solid-gold sheets lining the walls, where Inca kings worshipped Inti (the sun god), was dismantled when the Spaniards built the Convent of Santo Domingo on the site.

· Plaza de Armas, built on the remains of an important Inca gathering spot, is located in the historic center of the city and offers beautiful public green spaces and gardens. It is surrounded by the Cathedral of Santo Domingo (aka the Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin), built by the Spaniards using stones from dismantled Inca temples.

· Mercado Central de San Pedro is one of the city’s best markets offering fruits, vegetables, juices, cheese, meat, medicinal potions, and an endless array of alpaca clothing, scarves and hats to jewelry and pottery!

· Cusco Cathedral (aka the Cathedral of Santo Domingo), which took nearly 100 years to build, is famous for its highly unusual “The Last Supper” featuring Jesus and his disciples dining on a guinea pig, a traditional Peruvian dish! It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

· Plaza San Blas is the bohemian, artisan center of the city, uphill from the Plaza de Armas. It has picturesque streets with bright colors, tall walls and hanging gardens.

· Wild Rover is a hostel in town with a huge garden for chilling or sunbathing, known as a “party hostel” it features a restaurant, bar, free WIFI tennis courts and ping pong tables. We were most intrigued by the “spinning wheel” next to the bar with options such as "free shot," "get spanked," and "kiss a manager."

We would return to Cusco, after our hike, spending more time soaking up the culture and enjoying the food.

Hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

Trekking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu was not on any bucket list. In fact, while I enjoy hiking, I prefer doing it in ideal conditions with a hot shower and comfy bed at the end of the day. As an adult, I’ve slept in a tent exactly twice, vowing never to do so again. Therefore, on the third and hardest day of our hike, as we made our way over two passes, each above 13,000 feet, I couldn’t help but reflect on how I found myself in the midst of a multi-day hiking and camping adventure in the Andes.

In part, I attribute our adventure to my competitive personality. A quick search of “competitive personality” definitions confirms my “strong desire to be the best, need for validation, and Type-A” characteristics. When I was running in the mid-1990s, a marathon represented the pinnacle achievement. (see The Netherlands SIDE NOTE). When our much-younger friends in Denver shared their story of hiking to Machu Picchu a few years ago, and suggested we could do the same, the avid hiker in me realized I’d been given a pinnacle goal, to complete the iconic, best-known and most popular hike on the South American continent. Lucky for me, my husband was more than on-board, and our friends had a top-notch experience with their outfitter, Amazonas Explorer, with whom we booked, entirely based on their recommendation and whom we HIGHLY RECOMMEND!

As people who do a fair amount of traipsing around the Rocky Mountains, I thought I knew what we were getting into. Yes, it was longer mileage, yes, I would be sleeping on the cold ground in a tent wearing the same clothes for four days while carrying my essentials in a day pack, and yes, there were no outhouses. But I was so concerned about hiking, I didn’t take time to learn about the Inca Empire and why the trail mattered (see History of the Inca Empire above).

Luckily, our Amazonas Explorer guide, Jose, considers himself 60% Inca and was proud and passionate about sharing the story of “our Incas” while we hiked. His university studies also included much about the geology, flora and fauna of the high jungle and Andes, providing us a great educational experience.

We spent four days on the trail, before reaching the Sun Gate overlooking Machu Picchu. Because we had hiked in, we were able to explore part of the higher terraces, generally off-limits to all but trekkers. It was also our first view of the multitude of buses that transport thousands of non-hikers to this sacred site daily. Admittedly, after walking the royal road and earning the right visit the temple, it was somewhat disappointing to see so many people roll off buses and descend on Machu Picchu.

We were fortunate to have a fabulous cook, Teofilo, and 6 additional porters who carried all necessary gear, and nightly set up our tent, port-a-potty tent and dining tent. They also dismantled camp every morning after breakfast and ran ahead to prepare our lunch site in advance of our arrival. It was truly this group of local farmers and Inca descendants, who provided support, warm smiles and kindness always, that allowed us to focus on hiking at altitude to reach our goal.

I’ve attached our trail and elevation guide, a photo of our wonderful porters, and the pictures we took along the way. We started after a quick tour of nearby Ollantaytambo, known for its Inca-era grid of cobblestoned streets. On the fourth night we were treated to a hot shower, dinner and a very comfortable bed in nearby Aguas Calientes, before returning to Machu Picchu the next day for a personalized, guided tour. Back via entertaining train ride and bus to Cusco.

Exploring the High Andes Mountains (Puno, Lake Titicaca and Arequipa)

Following a few days of low-key sight-seeing in Cusco, we boarded the Belmond Andean Explorer, South America’s first luxury sleeper service, traversing the highest plains of the world’s longest mountain range. Living in the Rocky Mountains and having just spent time in the European Alps, I was intrigued by the differences between those ranges and this mountain system.

The Andes forms the longest continuous mountain range in the world, stretching 4,500 miles along South America’s western coast from the tip of the continent to the coast of the Caribbean. Integrating glaciers, volcanoes, grassland, desert, lakes and forest, the range is not a single line, but a succession of parallel and transverse mountain ranges and intervening plateaus and depressions. These mountains:

· resulted from global tectonic plate movement roughly 65 million years ago.

· includes the islands of Aruba, Bonaire, and Curacao; the submerged tops of the northern edge of the range.

· crosses seven countries from Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina.

· is divided into three sections: southern in Argentina and Chile, central in Chile, Peru and Bolivia, and northern in Venezuela, Columbia and Ecuador.

· contains the highest peaks in the Western Hemisphere (Mount Aconcagua at 22,831 feet).

· source the 4,000-mile Amazon River, the largest in the world in terms of water volume and drainage area, only the Nile is longer.

· is home to Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable lake at 12,500 feet above sea level. It occupies 120 miles x 50 miles between Peru and Bolivia, dotted with 41 islands and the remains of one of the oldest known American civilizations.

Our three-day, two-night journey began in Cusco, as we sipped pisco sours on the open deck off the lounge car while departing the station. We traveled southeast to Puno, with a stop at Tinta Station where a driver took us to the Raqch’i Archaeological Park, a primary Inca Empire control point on the road system that originated in Cusco. The Temple of Wiracocha is most prominent in the park, with walls extending above 60 ft, supporting what was once believed to be the largest single gable roof in the Empire. Adjoining the temple are living quarters and to the east are 152 round stone storehouses.

We returned to the train for our multi-course meal, followed by music in the bar car. It did not escape us that as we enjoyed luxuries aboard an English-owned rail service, we passed by poor farmers working hard and through small villages where locals, who lacked basic healthcare, food and shelter, came out to wave and stare and take pictures. Much like Amazonas Explorer (our Inca Trail outfitter), Belmond seems to invest in the communities they serve by providing jobs, infrastructure and tourist dollars. We reached Puno after dinner allowing for a sunrise hike to Lake Titicaca (which we skipped) the next morning.

Following a fabulous breakfast we enjoyed a boat ride to the Uros Islands, considered one of the world’s most innovative feats of human engineering. These entirely artificial, man-made floating islets, created by stacking layer, upon layer of woven dried totora reeds, are home to over 2,000 Uros, an indigenous pre-Inca people. While they are clearly accustomed to curious tourists, the women of the community warmly welcomed us in their traditional costumes and the leader of the island gave a presentation in their native language describing the year-long process of island building, translated by our guide. Prior to departing, we perused their intricate tapestries and hand-crafted jewelry.

Our next stop was Taquile Island, populated by some 2,200 indigenous Quechua-speaking Taquilenos, known for their handwoven textiles and clothing. Men are solely responsible for knitting, beginning as early as age eight, and women make yarn and weave. The colors and patterns seen in men’s clothing signify marital status, social status, even political affiliation. The women’s brightly colored skirts are a testament to their embroidery skill and creativity. Each item of clothing is crafted using ancient techniques and natural dyes ensuring their stories and traditions are passed through the generations. Their governance and social structure revolve around principles of community and collective decision-making, where labor and resources are shared to ensure the community’s well-being and preservation of their cultural heritage.

We were greeted with a beautiful rainbow as we concluded our boat trip and returned to our train in Puno. While Chris was enjoying afternoon tea, I indulged in a much-needed massage, rocking as the train swayed back and forth along the tracks. After another exquisite meal, we passed through the mining city of Juliaca providing a close-up view of its busy market before arriving near Lake Lagunillas and Sacacoha for the night. This location again provided an opportunity for a sunrise hike (again we skipped). Once all passengers returned, we departed for the Sumbay caves, home to paintings and petroglyphs estimated to be older than 6,000 years.

After returning to the train, we made an additional stop at Canahuas for those passengers disembarking to further explore Colca Canyon, one of the world’s deepest, filled with multiple examples of Inc and pre-Inca architecture along with alpacas, eagles and the Andean condor. With half of the original passengers remaining, we enjoyed lunch on board while winding our way through stunning scenery, mountain vistas and hidden aspects of daily life in Peru’s high Andes.

We arrived in Arequipa in late afternoon, exchanging contact info and saying goodbye to a CO sociology professor and CA paragliding pilot, old college friends traveling together, before being ushered into another van for a panoramic city tour. Honestly, at this point, I was exhausted. We’d been above 10,000 feet for two weeks, trekking, hiking, and exploring. We stopped at the historical center of the city and visited a few churches before heading to the airport for a return flight to Lima.

This leg of our journey, maybe even this entire adventure, provided me what I seek through travel, a peek into a world I know nothing about, a visit to places I didn’t know existed, and an immense sense of gratitude for my lot in life.

Sight-seeing in Lima

Following the tour of Arequipa, we boarded a flight to Lima. During the final part of our journey, we experienced overcast, gray clouds and persistent misting weather. Our first day, we caught the tail-end of a marathon. We spent some time walking around the neighborhood of Miraflores, where we stayed, and also checked out Barranca, the next neighborhood along the coast. We were too discouraged by the weather to do much else, though I can see how it would be a great city to explore when the weather was more inviting.

Lima is the capital of Peru, founded in 1535 and built along the Pacific coast with many neighborhoods lining the ocean cliffs. It is the largest city in Peru, with over 10 million residents, and one of the largest in South America. While we didn’t make it to the historic center, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988. The city also holds the title Gastronomical Capital of the Americas due to it mix of Spanish, Andean and Asian culinary traditions and the culture reflects indigenous, immigrant and colonizing influences from Andeans, Europeans, Africans and Asians who has made Lima home.

Something else we noticed in Lima, which we’ve been told is “nothing” compared to Asia, was the constant honking of car and bus horns. Traffic was loud and unbearable. Clear directions or driving rules were lacking. Cars seemed to stop at some intersections, without evidence of stop signs or other directional tools, but not at other intersections. While many people were doing so, crossing streets felt hazardous.

Our bus ride from Miraflores to the airport the evening we departed took an hour and 40 minutes to travel 10 miles. How vehicles fail to collide is beyond me. There were times the bus outside my window was less than 5 inches. I reflexively pulled my arm away from the window at one point, convinced the other bus’s mirror was going to crash through! I didn’t notice much in the way of bicycles, as I can understand riding bikes might be a death wish, though motorcycles were everywhere, most frequently zigzagging between lanes of traffic and squeezing between near-colliding buses. Chris swore after walking and riding the streets of Lima, he’d never complain about Denver’s traffic again.